From the people behind Canada's iconic Rocky Mountaineer, the Canyon Spirit certainly lives up to its billing as the USA's only luxury train - as I was lucky enough to find out on its inaugural journey from Salt Lake City to Denver.
This extension of Rocky Mountaineer's Rockies to Red Rocks route features panoramic cars, exquisite food, hotel stays and the perfect crew to inform and entertain.
It also drew attention from people we passed, as kids and adults stood and waved. Very few modes of transport elicit that response and Canyon Spirit also utterly impressed the passengers onboard.
What's it like aboard Canyon Spirit?
The experience begins before entering the gleaming blue and gold cars. From checking in at the hotel the evening before, every employee helped increase the anticipation. Their passion and eagerness to help was intoxicating.
I had been told that the crew were the stars of the show, and I started to believe that when we were greeted at the boarding location. There was a joyous feeling and, with photos being taken, the magic was already casting its spell.
Soak in stunning views from panoramic cars
Onboard, the panoramic windows caught the eye as the sun glinted through the glass at edge of the roof. I found my spacious seat in this spotlessly clean carriage and glanced through the menu in my seat pocket and started to look forward to huevos rancheros for breakfast.
At the front were Mike and Jess, a great team who described the many points of interest we passed through, adding so much to an already fantastic experience.
Food onboard Canyon Spirit
Overseen by Chef Josh, each car has its own chef and ours was the wonderful Rae.
The food throughout was fantastic. Dishes and ingredients reflected the regions through which we traveled, from the delicious Utah scone to seared beef tenderloin. Soaking up views of De Beque Canyon while savoring a delicate and delicious afternoon tea was a thoroughly enjoyable way to spend an hour.
Drinks were available whenever you wanted and all lunches were paired with a curated selection of wines. At the end of the car, there's a selection of fruit and water.
Signature or Premier Class?
There are two classes of travel on Canyon Spirit: Signature and Premier.
Passengers in both classes travel in panoramic cars, but Premier enjoys access to the bar cars, elevated menus and premium beverages.
Moving through the train, you can stop to enjoy the views from the open windows between the cars before continuing to the bar cars, where snacks and drinks including local craft beers and handmade cocktails are provided.
All luggage taken care of
Canyon Spirit's season runs April to November, making the most of the breathtaking landscapes on daylight-only journeys. Each evening, passengers stay in pre-arranged hotels.
To enhance this experience further, luggage is left in the room and transferred to the next night's room. It worked flawlessly and was hugely appreciated. From Salt Lake to Denver, I had barely touched my case.
Day 1: Salt Lake City to Moab
Meeting in the grand hotel lobby of Salt Lake City's former Union Pacific station, it was then a short coach transfer to the train.
With everyone aboard, this inaugural journey began with a toast honoring the land and the indigenous people who'd called it home for centuries.
Leaving Salt Lake, we headed toward the mirror-still Utah Lake under the watchful eye of the snow-capped Wasatch Mountains, before climbing through our first canyon and winding around the horseshoe curves of the Gilluly Loops. Passing the imposing pinnacles of Castle Gate, we heard tales of Butch Cassidy and his gang.
We disembarked in the near-ghost town of Thompson Springs. In the old steam days of the Denver to Santa Fe Railroad, passengers would have alighted here before an eight-hour stagecoach ride to Moab. Our journey by luxury motorcoach took 40 minutes.
The scenery had changed yet again. Here, red rocks and desert were prominent even from our hotel on the edge of town.
Excursion to Arches National Park
With my bag left in the room, I checked out for an early morning included excursion to Arches National Park.
I'd never been to Utah or Colorado, so I was excited - and it didn't disappoint. Our first stop was Balanced Rock, a 128-foot rock formation comprising a 3,500-ton boulder perched precariously on an eroding pinnacle. As first views of this untouched American landscape go, it was impressive.
Double Arch was astounding. We were dwarfed against the huge sandstone arches that framed the blue morning sky. There was plenty of time to explore and learn about the flora. A guide pointed out the green ephedra near our feet and told us the story of Mormon tea.
Day 2: Moab to Glenwood Springs
With Arches whetting our appetite, we boarded the train with a backdrop of the iconic red rocks. As the "fire and ice" of Moab and the snow-capped La Salle Mountains receded, we crossed the high desert plains.
Delving back toward the wild Colorado River, Ruby Canyon delivered iconic views. Canyon Spirit twisted and turned through spectacular scenes of red sandstone topped by the verdant groves of the Grand Mesa.
Crossing the state border, we were told about the Moqui Steps that were carved into the cliff thousands of years ago. I realized that, if you're sitting with fellow passengers in the piano car, don't worry if they appear to zone out, they're just enchanted by the scenery. Gazing out of the windows here was a perfect moment - enhanced further when we saw bald eagles flying overhead, and even poking their heads out of their nests.
Tales of the Old West
Glenwood Springs exudes the spirit of the Old West. Straddling the Colorado River, its historic center still harkens back to its time as a popular frontier town, with tales of legendary gunfighters and gamblers.
Overlooking Glenwood Springs is Linwood Cemetery, where two of the most notorious outlaws were laid to rest: Doc Holliday and Kid Curry.
Earlier in the day, we'd heard about Kid Curry's involvement in the last train robbery on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. Curry was a friend of Butch Cassidy, who himself committed a robbery in Castle Gate, which we passed on Day 1.
These well-known characters had dappled our journey, adding nostalgic intrigue to an already captivating experience.
Day 3: Glenwood Springs to Denver
This may have been the final day of an already unforgettable journey, but the Rockies were going to be a magnificent finale - and the cinnamon rolls baked fresh on the train were a perfect appetizer.
Immediately, the canyons impressed: first Glenwood then Gore. This was the most rugged stretch of the journey, with limestone cliffs dotted with Douglas fir and ponderosa pines. There are 48 tunnels on the entire route, and we were going through 45 of them today.
The eight-mile Byers Canyon is narrower and seemed quieter than the others - and was my favorite. It was named after William Byers, who bought the land from a Sioux woman. He later learned it belonged to the Arapaho people, so ended up paying twice.
Climbing the Fraser Canyon, it was clear we were in the Rockies. The snow on the slopes of Winter Park provided another change of view. Then came the Moffat Tunnel. At more than 9,000 feet above sea level and 6.2-miles long, this 1920s tunnel is a feat of precision engineering.
Emerging into the sun on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains, we were again reminded of the connection between the train's crew and our surroundings. One of the staff lived here and his dad had come out to see him, waving as we came into view. It was his dad's birthday, and the train honked its horn in honor. It was the start of an emotional journey into Denver.
As we arrived in the Mile High City, another member of the crew was greeted by their family. Although, by this time, we all felt like family.
What are the highlights for the train crew?
Throughout the three-day journey from Salt Lake City to Denver, the train crew became our friends. Whether enjoying the facts from Mike and Jess, stopping off at Leigh's cocktail lounge or heading to Sophia in the piano car, a friendly face awaited.
Sophia & Maren
In her fourth season, having worked on Rocky Mountaineer, the ever-cheerful Sophia favored two of the rugged canyons viewed on days two and three. Ruby Canyon is where the Colorado River winds past hoodoos and the ancient Moqui steps, while Gore Canyon is on the upper Colorado River on the approach to the Rockies.
Working with Sophia in the piano bar at the back was trainee Maren. She spoke of her love for the colors of Moab. Known for it red rocks that we saw on our exploration of Arches National Park - and from the town itself - Maren also rated the green rocks that lined our route out of Moab, caused by deoxidized iron deposits.
Leigh
Looking perfectly at home behind the bar, Leigh concurred with Sophia, also mentioning the jaw-dropping Ruby Canyon.
The group had enjoyed a great team-bonding trip kayaking along this section of the river where Utah and Colorado merge. It was truly stunning, the bright red sandstone rocks calling to mind the scenery of the Grand Canyon, albeit on a smaller scale, and showcasing the epic wilds of America's Southwest in timeless glory.
Mike
Car host Mike's passion and knowledge throughout the journey had added so much to our experience. Whether talking about a geology trip to Moab, kayaking down the Colorado River or growing up near Winter Peak, his personal connection to the locations had filtered through to us. No matter how far we were from our homes, we lived here vicariously through Mike. This was our beloved region too, now.
Mike didn't have a favorite section, he found it amazing how varied it all was. Traveling between cities, passing snow-capped mountains and deserts, it had it all.
"What I enjoy most is telling the guests what they're seeing," concluded Mike in a way befitting his enthusiasm and generosity - and that of the whole Canyon Spirit team.
Experience Canyon Spirit with the trusted experts
At Vacations By Rail, we offer a selection of ways you can enjoy America's only luxury train.
Whether you want an escorted tour, accompanied by a world-class Tour Manager who sorts out all the logistics, or an independent vacation to explore your own way, we have a tour for you.
Ian traveled in Premier class on the three-day Rockies to the Red Rocks route between Salt Lake City and Denver.
To find your perfect trip, view our range of Canyon Spirit vacations.
